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Prolonged droughts, desertification and widespread wildfires that happen as a result have been impacting winemakers the world over. In addition to severe biodiversity loss, drought‑provoked wildfires alter the taste of the wine – a phenomenon known as ‘smoke taint’. This is where volatile compounds within the smoke from wildfires are absorbed by the grapes, producing an unpleasant taste. The frequency of wildfires has created a need to conduct special studies2 with the aim of helping wine producers in affected regions (eg, US and Australia) to identify the presence of ‘smoke taint’ in their grapes.
Meanwhile, other global regions that are renowned for their established winemaking traditions face other climate-related problems. Referred to by many as the wine capital of the world, the French region of Bordeaux is currently experiencing a major change in its wine production. In fact, Merlot, for which the region is famed (with up to 60 percent of its vineyards producing this variety), is on the verge of extinction. This is as a result of the gradually warming climate and the harvest season that has been shifting earlier and earlier since the 1980s. With their livelihoods threatened, winemakers are left with no choice but to invest in research and development in order to experiment with different grapes from hotter regions to find a replacement for the distinctive Merlot taste.
How can winemakers adapt to climate change?
It’s not easy to change long-established wine growing practices. Adapting to new climate conditions often means planting new positions for vineyards. For example, more and more of the northern-exposed plots of land in a vineyard are now being planted, but even that might not be enough to save the vines from further damage.
Wine&More’s Nenad Trifunovic in a vineyard
Irrigation used to only be considered necessary for lesser positions, but it has now become imperative. Even new ways of growing grapes, which had previously been abandoned by enologists (wine scientists), have suddenly been adopted. Small shifts have become not a mere question of style, but survival. Should we leave the leaves to provide shade for the grapes, yet risk them becoming diseased, or should we remove the leaves? If so, is it better to remove them earlier to allow the grapes to adapt to increased sun exposure, or leave it as late as possible? Should we keep the grass in rows for it to grow freely, both as a means to preserve biodiversity and to keep the soil cooler? The more our environment changes, the more questions must be addressed by winemakers to keep up.
As with many other industries, the wine industry must harness creativity and innovation in order to increase the entire industry’s resilience. Proper soil and plant management through the use of canopies, growing plants between and around the vines, and the introduction of effective irrigation systems can all help to mitigate the immediate effects of rising temperatures and longer dry seasons.
However, in the long term, winemakers should look to expand the number of grapes they produce, either by introducing new varieties suited to growing in hotter, drier climates, or by crossbreeding two grapes to achieve a new, more resilient variety.
While it is clear that the wine industry faces an unprecedented challenge, there is hope that coordinated efforts and innovation will preserve the ancient art of wine production, resulting in new and exciting grape varieties and combinations.
References
1. Drought in numbers 2022 – Restoration for readiness and resilience. [cited 21 July 2022] Available from: https://reliefweb.int/report/world/drought-numbers-2022-restoration-readiness-and-resilience
2. Chemical analysis reveals effects of wildfire smoke on grapes and wines [Internet]. UC Santa Cruz News. 2022 [cited 21 July 2022]. Available from: https://news.ucsc.edu/2022/03/smoke-taint-wines.html#:~:text=Volatile%20compounds%20in%20the%20smoke,wines%20made%20from%20affected%20grapes
